Swimming, travelling and living with A. Lange and; Söhne’s take on the luxury sports watch
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Two weeks with the Lange Odysseus
Swimming, travelling and living with A. Lange and; Söhne’s take on the luxury sports watch
Firstly I’ll apologise for any formatting problems with this article- I’m writing it on my phone rather than laptop. I’m currently in Mauritius (poor me) and left my laptop at home in an attempt to detach from work for a few weeks. The scenery is pretty incredible, I hadn’t planned to write an article, but this watch, as well as the many messages asking for my review has compelled me to do so.
So firstly, why did I buy the Odysseus? Essentially, I wanted a really great high end sports watch that I could wear anywhere, anytime. I know that there are watches that are cheaper and more readily accessible- but that’s not what I wanted. I’m a huge Lange fan, and the Odysseus has always had me curious- but two things scared me- the size and the price. We can talk about both a bit later.
Odysseus on my 16cm wrist
The story that Lange told about the Odysseus is that its biggest customers kept asking for a watch that they could take on holiday. Anthony de Haas has spoken about collectors who own multiple watches from the brand, but felt that in their precious few weeks of holiday had to leave their Lange watches behind for something more robust rather than a finely finished precious metal watch on a leather strap.
I think I actually believe them. When the Odysseus appeared in 2019, it’s easy to view it in the same lens as what was happening elsewhere. The Royal Oak and Nautilus were already becoming unobtanium and we were just entering what would be an unbelievable integrated sports watch market. it was suspiciously well timed- but the timeline doesn’t really work. Lange had been working on the idea of a sportier watch for years. De Haas said that the design that ended up becoming the Odysseus started in around 2012/13, while Wilhelm Schmidt said that the L155.5 movement began in 2015. So bravo really, great timing. They have done the same again with their smaller watches of late- so someone at Lange is making some good decisions!
As always, Lange did not just stick an existing movement into a steel case add a bracelet and call it a sports watch. They built an entire new family from the ground up, and 6 years later there is still nothing that looks quite the same.
I’ve spent the last week wearing one on holiday- which seems as good a place as any to find out if Lange achieved what they set out to do.
On the wrist
The Case
The Odysseus is 40.5mm across the case and wears pretty much like a modern 41mm Rolex submariner does in my opinion. It doesn’t feel svelt, but also doesn’t feel too oversized. I guess it wears true to size.
This sounds obvious, but integrated bracelet watches are really difficult to get a feeling for size based on diameter alone. The lug to lug is 47mm, but if you include the ending then it actually measures around 51mm end link to end link. Importantly, the bracelet turns down immediately from the end links, rather than projecting out- so if you’re wrist can handle circa 50mm across the top then you’re going to be fine.
My wrist is around 6.5inches and I was worried the Odysseus would be too much watch- but it feels okay, especially considering the comfort and the fact that it’s a sports watch.
Would I prefer it to be smaller? Sure. A 38.5mm Odysseus with the same construction as a Lange 1 would be an absolute dream for a lot of people. At 40.5mm though, I don’t find it cumbersome to wear and find it easier to wear than a Vacheron Overseas, an AP jumbo or a Patek 5711. The round case helps a lot.
The case itself might be my favourite part of the watch. You get traditional Lange architecture, brushed central mid-case, but the crown side is where things get really interesting. What initially look like crown guards are actually hidden pushers for advancing the day and the date.
They are so great. There are multiple surfaces, edges and facets, with brushed areas running into polished chamfers and it creates a lot of depth to the pushers. Sounds mad to say, but it’s almost architectural in style, with the hollowed section reminding me of a cathedral arch. It is tough to photograph it, but next time you see one, try and pay attention.
The pushers are awesome.
When I first saw the Odysseus I really was not sure what to make of the whole case to lug to bracelet situation. It felt slightly too much with a little less elegance than I would have expected or wanted. Over time it has grown on me a lot, but I still think this is the part of the design that will decide whether someone likes the watch or not.
Interestingly the first 250 watches made had fully removable end links/bracelets, which mean these go for a premium. All examples after this have the end links effectively fixed to the case.
Early Odysseus with removable end links and bracelet.
The Bracelet
The bracelet is the best I have worn on a watch. I don’t say that lightly, because Rolex have spent decades making bracelets that are near perfect. The oyster is superb, the jubilee very comfortable, but the Odysseus bracelet is better than both.
First thing you notice is how it feels, very supple and drapes around the wrist. It distributes the weight of the watch amazingly well, it is very comfortable with no pressure points.
Every link is removable via a clever push button system that requires no tools at all. No screwdrivers or loctite or screws. You just click a button with a toothpick and lock them into place like Lego.
The clasp is even better, Lange give you 7mm of micro adjustment via a button in the middle of the clasp. It is absolutely perfect. The gold standard for micro adjustments. You can have a fit down to the millimetre without taking the watch off your wrist.
This sounds relatively minor until you spend time somewhere hot. This week in Mauritius I’ve been going from air conditioned rooms to 28 degree heat to the pool etc. your wrist does change size and I have been adjusting the bracelet about four times a day with so much ease. Push the button, move it a few millimetres and crack on.
I don’t know how I could go back to a watch without this kind of thing now.
The bracelet is probably why the 40.5mm case works so well on me. On paper, it is at the upper end of my comfort zone- but on the wrist is much better.
The case is 11.1mm thick and is fairly sensible for an automatic sports watch with 120m water resistance and a day and date function.
Again, I’d take a few millimetres off it if Lange offered me, but the size is fine as soon as it’s on wrist.
Dial
The dial is superb, there’s no two ways about it.
Odysseus dial
There is a lot of texture and depth to the dial, there’s concentric outer circles, sloping rehaut minute track and grained centre with the subseconds. Depending on the light, the blue changes a lot- it goes from a deep blue to a navy to almost a black at times.
The red ‘60’ at 12 sometimes is a bit disarming on such an austere dial, but is quirky and I don’t mind it.
The typography is typical Lange and I think the best in the industry (along with Journe).
The date windows are again typical Lange. They use their dates as part of the design rather than an afterthought. The colour matched date discs are brilliant and the frames follow the curvature of the dial, which is class.
Detail on the dial and date window
The upper pusher advances the date, and the lower the day. It has a very satisfying feel to the function- not dissimilar to changing the date on a Lange 1.
This is definitely the most legible Lange I’ve owned. It has polished and faceted markers, with large lume filled hands. It actually feels slightly strange at first if you’re used to traditional Lange watches, but makes complete sense.
I’m still undecided as to whether I prefer this blue dial or the grey dial on the white gold. But either way, they’re both great to look at.
Photo: Kristian Haagen
The Movement
I won’t spend too long here- just read Langepedias article about the Odysseus. The important thing is that it’s designed specifically for the watch, it has 4Hz, 50hour power reserve and consists of 312 components. The traditional balance cock has been replaced by a balance bridge that is secured at both ends, giving the oscillating system more stability and shock protection in a watch intended for a more active life.
The screw down crown and 120 meter water resistance matter far more to me in everyday life than the movement at this point.
I will say though that the movement is not pleasant to wind compared to what I’m used to from Lange. There is more resistance and does not feel as buttery smooth. Fortunately it’s an automatic, so once it’s on wrist you don’t need to worry about that.
Buying one
I bought mine on the secondary market. I don’t really play the authorised dealer game anymore, I don’t have the patience or the money to do so.
I recently went into the Lange boutique to register this watch and they told me that the retail price is now almost £40k. You need around £75k spend history to qualify and then wait 3 years.
The secondary market makes more sense to me. At time of writing, good full set Odysseus will set you back between £48k to £53k- the newer the watch the more expensive of course. For me, the price difference is worth paying. By the time I had spent enough with the brand to qualify, then waited three years, the Odysseus retail would be close to £50k anyhow if Lange’s past price increases are anything to go by.
Of course this doesn’t make £50k cheap. It does however look interesting when you consider what else is out there from similar high end brands. Lange is on a bit of a streak at the moment and I do personally feel like there is a lot of potential for this watch to appreciate quite rapidly (not investment advice!).
So what else is there?
The obvious historical comparisons are the Royal Oak jumbo and the Nautilus/aquanaut. However I’m becoming increasingly less interested in these as everyday or travel watches due to the recognisability. Unfortunately, It just feels like there is no point putting yourself in danger wearing them.
If I’m spending serious money on a watch that I want to wear everyday and on holiday, there are five alternatives that I’ve narrowed it down to (I know there are more like the Bulgari OF, Parmigiani Tonda but I’m just not as interested in them).
Vacheron Overseas, Vacheron 222, Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto, Romain Gauthier C 39.5 and MB&F LM101 EVO.
The Overseas is probably the rational choice, 41mm, 150m water resistant, excellent quick change system with rubber and bracelet and also significantly cheaper than the Odysseus. I’ve never owned one, but it makes a lot of sense for someone after the sports watch trying to stray away from AP, Patek or Rolex.
The 222 interests me for opposite reasons, it’s 37mm and 8mm thick, really wonderfully proportioned and something I’d love to live with for a few months before making up my mind. However its limitation is the 50m water resistance, which might hinder proper holiday activities, like swimming.
The Laurent Ferrier sport auto could have been a real contender, at a similar price point on the secondary market, a better material for a sports watch (in my opinion) and 120m water resistance. The bracelet let me down though, it really didn’t feels anywhere near the same quality as any of the others mentioned, and has no micro adjustment capability- which at this price point is a travesty.
The new Romain Gauthier C in 39.5mm should have been perfect. It’s a great size, not recognisable, titanium and durable. Then you get to the water resistance, and for some unexplainable reason he’s decided 30m is all it needs with no screw down crown. Unforgivable. In fact, on the RG website- ‘avoid vigorous swimming or diving’. For my use this effectively removes it from the conversation.
That leaves the strange one of the bunch- the LM101 Evo. I’m very aware I’m probably still under the influence of our visit to the MAD house, but this watch is cool. Not recognisable to the general population, titanium, 80m water resistance and the FlexRing shock system to add protection for sports. It really feels like a watch I would wear on holiday or daily all the time.
Where does that leave the Odysseus?
After living with one for a few weeks, I genuinely think it’s one of the best watches Lange make. I understand why some people don’t like the design, the transition between case and bracelet is unusual and it always will be.
But nearly everything that actually matters when you’re wearing it has been done incredibly well. The case is full of detail, the dial is beautiful and legible, the movement is all Lange, the bracelet is exceptional and clasp is so good that it has ruined other sports watch bracelets for me.
For Lange I think this is what they set out to achieve, and the original brief was to build a Lange you could take on holiday. Six years after it launched, I’m sitting in Mauritius wearing one. I think they got there!
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